The global skin-lightening market is worth over $10 billion and growing, but the unregulated products driving it contain dangerous chemicals linked to serious health risks. Zahra Khan speaks to the scientists and advocates trying to fix the problem
Skin bleaching is often framed as a cosmetic choice, but it is underpinned by complex biochemistry and driven by powerful social, economic and historical forces. By interfering with melanin production, commonly used skin-lightening agents can undermine the skin’s natural protective functions, with growing evidence linking illegal ingredients such as mercury and hydroquinone to serious long-term health harms, including kidney disease and neurological damage. Despite regulatory bans, unsafe products remain widely available through poorly enforced supply chains and online markets, while colourist beauty ideals continue to fuel demand. Scientists, clinicians and public health advocates warn that addressing the problem will require not just tighter regulation, but greater understanding of skin biology and a cultural shift away from equating lighter skin with value.